Not far from the laid back cafes of Shimoda’s popular Shirahama Beach lies a hidden gem that whispers of Japan’s ancient legends. Shirahama Shrine isn’t your typical tourist stop — it’s a living connection to the Izu Peninsula’s deep cultural roots, where nature, mythology, and life in a small community seamlessly merge.
A Shrine Steeped in History & Myth
Known by locals as Shirahama Jinja, the shrine’s official name is (伊古奈比咩命神社 Ikonahime no Mikoto Jinja). Said to have stood for more than 2,400 years, this shrine is the oldest in Izu. It’s dedicated to Ikonahime-no-Mikoto, a goddess of beauty and fertility, whose legend tells of arriving by sea as a divine consort for Mishima Daimyojin, one of the foundational gods in Japanese mythology.
According to local lore, Mishima Daimyojin created the seven Izu Islands over seven days. On completion, he chose Shirahama as his sacred dwelling. This marked the place where the shrine is now located as a spiritual power spot. Later, fate called him to a higher honor at Mishima Taisha. It is said that while Mishima Daimyojin moved on, perhaps given a sort of divine “promotion,” Ikonahime-no-Mikoto stayed behind to care for the shrine, nurturing its enduring legacy.
Hitachi-sai Fire Festival
A Sacred Mountain
Overlooking the shrine, a gentle hill — known as Hitachiyama — is the most hallowed ground of the shrine. It is also the place where its most ancient rituals continue. During the Hitachi-sai Fire Festival in October, sacred fires representing each of the seven islands light up the night sky. This annual rite is one of few left that serve as an enduring reminder of the elemental forces at work in this part of Izu.
Ancient Rituals Today
Step through the simple torii gate and look around. You’ll begin to sense that you’re in a very ancient and important place. Here, traditions continue in a way that can feel deeply personal and profoundly historical. In October, during the Hitachi-sai, priests walk barefoot over burning coals right by the shore, chanting prayers to purify and bless the community. Nearby, families partake in the quiet ritual of gohei-nagashi—floating white paper offerings out to the sea to send their wishes to the gods.
And then there’s Sanbasō, a rarely seen masked ritual dance, passed down through the ages. It is a dance that some believe grew out of Japan’s Noh traditions. The dancers’ slow, measured movements are an echo of agricultural rites meant to bless the land and ensure the well-being of the community.
Why Shirahama Shrine Endures
In a part of Izu known to domestic tourists for its onsen resorts, beachside hotels, and surf culture, Shirahama Shrine stands apart as a quiet guardian of Izu’s ancient past. It resists the commodification of tourist facilities that surround it. It doesn’t shout its history—it offers it up gently for those who take the time to listen. Whether you’re marveling at the ancient juniper trees, one that’s been standing for over 2,000 years, or mesmerized by the glow of a sacred fire as it blends with the twilight sky, you’re in a place that’s as old as the land itself.
For me, a few remaining treasures like Shirahama Shrine reveal Izu’s soul — a blend of nature, myth, and community that remains resilient through the centuries. The shrine, with its mountain guardian and its legacy of divine mythology, invites you to slow down, reflect, and reconnect with a Japan that feels both timeless and real.
If You Go:
Location: Shirahama, Shimoda
Highlight: Hitachisai, the ancient fire rituals in October and the panoramic view of its famous torii in front of the Sagami Bay.
Tip: Pair your shrine visit with a stroll along the beach and a quiet moment on the mountain.
