Izu's Culinary Heritage: Kanesa Katsuobushi
What is Katsuobushi?
At the heart of Japanese cuisine is dashi, the clear broth that gives depth and umami to miso soup, simmered vegetables, and countless other dishes. The essential ingredient in dashi is katsuobushi — bonito (aka: skip-jack tuna) that has been smoked, dried, and aged into rock-hard blocks. Shaved into delicate flakes, katsuobushi is simple, yet it defines the taste of Japanese home cooking.
Katsuobushi in Izu
Along the rugged coastlines of the Izu Peninsula, especially in the fishing village of Tago in Nishi-Izu, katsuobushi production was once a thriving industry. At its peak, the village supported around 40 small family workshops, each turning freshly caught bonito into the smoky, savory blocks that fueled kitchens across Japan.
But this local industry began to disappear. New fishing methods replaced the traditional single-line boats, the 1970s oil crisis drove many fishermen out of business, and large factories came to dominate production with cheaper, mass-produced katsuobushi. Gradually, nearly every workshop in Izu closed its doors.
Today, only one fully operating katsuobushi maker remains in Izu: Kanesa Katsuobushi.
Preserving a Vanishing Craft
Founded in 1882, Kanesa has survived thanks to long-standing relationships with customers, many of whom have been purchasing from them for over half a century. These ties — built on trust, consistency, and appreciation for quality — have been the shop’s lifeline.
At the heart of Kanesa’s craftsmanship is the tebiyama-shiki baikan (手火山式焙乾) method, a traditional hand-fired smoking process. Local hardwoods such as oak and cherry are burned in small furnaces, and artisans carefully control the fire, alternating between intense heat and cooling. This cycle is repeated 10–15 times over the course of a month. The result is a katsuobushi with unmatched clarity of flavor and aroma — the essence of authentic Japanese dashi.
For those who have only known the taste of mass produced katsuobushi, a taste of Kanesa’s quality product is unforgettable.
A Cultural Legacy
Kanesa also produces shio-katsuo, a whole salted bonito known as a “New Year’s fish.” Once a common sight across coastal Japan, it now survives only in Nishi-Izu. By making and teaching about this rare product, Kanesa helps preserve a living cultural tradition.
Mr. Yasuhisa Serizawa, the fifth-generation owner, works not only as a craftsman but also as an educator. Kanesa offers tours and workshops, inviting visitors to learn how katsuobushi is made, how to shave it properly, and how to prepare dashi. For local schoolchildren and international travelers alike, the message is clear: this is more than food — it is a legacy of resilience, community, and pride.
Visiting Kanesa Today
For travelers to Izu, a visit to Kanesa is an opportunity to step inside Japan’s culinary heritage. Watching smoke rise from the tebiyama furnace, seeing blocks of fish slowly transformed by fire and time, you gain a rare insight into the foundation of Japanese cooking.
This is not just a shop — it is the last fully operating katsuobushi workshop in Izu, a living remnant of an industry that once defined the region.
Serizawa-san’s tireless commitment to preserving this traditional method and educating people about it has made him a well-loved celebrity in Izu.
Keep up the great work! We’re all very proud of you!
Visit Kanesa with Jimmy’s Izu Tours
When you join one of my guided tours, I can arrange a visit to Kanesa Katsuobushi so you can see this extraordinary process firsthand. It’s a chance to meet Mr. Serizawa, learn how dashi is made, and connect with a tradition that has shaped Japanese cuisine for over a thousand years.
👉 Ready to experience the taste of Japan at its source? Book your tour with Jimmy’s Izu Tours and discover why Kanesa is a treasure of Izu.